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Uruguay sits between Argentina and Brazil on South America's Atlantic coast. And right on the estuary of the Río de la Plata is its capital, Montevideo, just a hop, or Buquebus ferry-bus ride, across the water from Buenos Aires. For a Latin capital its 2 million inhabitants may seem rather tame, but with many of these of European descent the city is modern and lively, and there's certainly no lacking in arts, culture or education. And with Argentina so close, it comes as no surprise to hear the odd tapping of tango or to be served a hefty steak at dinner. Except this time you have nine sandy beaches spanning the waterfront and many spectacular beaches, dunes and headlands stretching up the coast. It's a place less visited, but with the collapse of other nearby economies the montevideños are holding their heads up high.
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