Sitting radiant at 2,530m in the spectacular Southern Sierra, Ecuador's third largest city is almost as high as its capital, Quito, some 300km away. Settled first by the Incas and then, in 1557, by the Spanish, the Cuenca of today is a UNESCO world heritage site and a stunning example of colonial preserve amidst mountain beauty. And while Quito has its more frenetic side, as to be expected of any Latin capital, Cuenca oozes just a little more charm and tranquility in which to study the language - its cobbled streets, hidden courtyards, riverside walks, colourful weekly markets and restored colonial houses will all turn your head, of course, but only at the pace set by you. Come at fiesta time, however, and we make no apologies for any amount of music, cheering and hooting (to say nothing of the Carnaval's water fights) that may come your way…