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For a city so deeply rooted in the past, Athens has it easy when
it comes to drawing in the tourists. Even if you haven't been, you
can't help but be impressed by images of the Acropolis, the Parthenon
and the Roman Empire all epitomising life in the Greek capital.
But it's not all about former glory - thousands of years of history
and mythology now converge with a bright and optimistic future,
as Athens prepares itself for the 2004 Olympic Games and a prosperous
life within the EU. It's busy and bustling and it may have its fair
share of concrete and pollution, but it's easy to overlook this
as you sip your ouzo and pick at mezedes from a sun-drenched terrace
looking out over the glistening sea…
The city is bounded on three sides by Mt Parnitha, Mt Pendeli and Mt Hymettos.
Within Athens there are no less than eight hills, of which the Acropolis
and Lykavittos are the most prominent. The hills provide a peaceful
respite from the clamour of the city and offer stunning views to
the glistening waters of the Saronic Gulf, the city's boundary on
the south side. The streets of Athens (clearly signposted in Greek
and English) now meld imperceptibly into Piraeus, the city's port.
Just about everything of interest to the traveller is within a
small area surrounding Plateia Syntagmatos (Syntagma Square). This
area is bounded by the districts of Plaka to the south, Monastiraki
to the west, Kolonaki to the east and Omonia to the north.
Plateia Syntagmatos is dominated by the old Royal Palace and is
the beating heart of the business district, with luxury hotels,
banks and airline offices. Plaka, nestled below the Acropolis, is
the old Turkish quarter and virtually all that existed when Athens
was declared the capital of independent Greece. Though Plaka is
packed with tourists in high season, it's also one of the prettiest
and most atmospheric areas of the city. Monastiraki is the market
district and a fascinating part of town to wander. Psiri, nearby,
is brimming with stylish cafes and bars and makes a great place
to stop for a spot of lunch. Kolonaki, a classy residential area
tucked in under Lykavittos Hill, is full of trendy boutiques, art
galleries and cafes. Omonia, a grimy zone known for its pickpockets
and prostitutes, is an important transport hub, especially for buses.
Climate
Spring and late autumn are ideal, by skirting around the summer
months you can save yourself experiencing hell on earth. 40°-plus
days make even the simplest activities a sweat and hordes of people
in transit to the cooler islands make it hard to get around. Winter
will save you money in accommodation, extras and, besides the odd
rainy day, is quite a pleasant time with few tourists.
City sights
Acropolis: The Acropolis stands sentinel over
Athens. The city was once a showcase of colossal buildings, lavishly
coloured and gilded and of gargantuan statues, some of bronze, others
of marble plated with gold and encrusted with precious stones. Now
in ruins, the cool grandeur of the bare marble is still breathtaking.
Pericles set about transforming the Acropolis into a city of temples
after being informed by the Delphic oracle in 510 BC that it should
become a province of the gods. Crowning the Acropolis, unsurpassed
in grace and harmony, the Parthenon is the largest Doric temple
ever completed in Greece, the only one built completely (apart from
its wooden roof) of Pentelic marble. The Parthenon had a dual purpose
- to house the giant statue of Athena commissioned by Pericles and
to serve as the treasury for the tribute money that had been moved
from Delos. It was built on the site of four earlier temples, all
dedicated to the worship of Athena. Beside the Parthenon is the
Erechtheion, immediately recognisable for its much-photographed
Caryatids, the six maidens who take the place of columns. The Acropolis
Museum houses a collection of sculptures and relief's from the site.
Ancient Agora: The Agora (market) was the focal
point of administrative, commercial, political and social activity
back in the old days. All roads led to this bustling and crowded
place, where Socrates could be heard expounding his philosophy and
later where St Paul disputed daily in an attempt to win converts
to Christianity. A good place to begin an exploration of the site
is in the reconstructed Stoa of Attalos, originally built between
159 and 138BC; its expensive shops were a popular stamping ground
for moneyed Athenians. In the vicinity is the Agora Museum, where
there's a model of the Agora upstairs along with a collection of
finds from the site. The Temple of Hephaestus, on the western edge
of the Agora, dates from 449BC and is the best-preserved Doric temple
in Greece. To the northeast of the temple are the foundations of
the Stoa of Zeus Eleutherios, one of the places where Socrates spoke
to the masses. Near the southern entrance of the market is the Church
of the Holy Apostles, which was built in the early 11th century
to commemorate St Paul and his teachings. Have a look at the Byzantine
frescoes inside.
Benaki Museum: This establishment was born in
1931, when Antoine Benaki turned his family house into a museum
and presented it to Greece. It houses a sumptuous and eclectic collection
from Europe and Asia, including Bronze Age finds from Mycenae, Thessaly
and ecclesiastical furniture brought from Asia Minor by refugees.
It's the oldest museum in Greece and ranks among its best. More
than 20,000 items are on display chronologically over four levels,
beginning with prehistory to the formation of the modern Greek state.
It has an excellent Byzantine collection and a gallery focusing
on the development of Hellenism during foreign domination. The spectrum
of Greek cultural history is covered, including Karaghiozi shadow
puppets, a stunning array of costumes, jewellery, textiles, and
paintings, including early works by El Greco. The antiquities collection
includes Bronze-age finds from Mycenae and Thessaly and Cycladic
pottery, while the Egyptian collection includes fayum Greco-Roman
funerary portraits. Benaki's heart is immured inside the Museum's
entrance, but the soul of Greece is well enshrined in his gift to
the country.
National Archaeological Museum: Despite all the
pilfering by foreign archaeologists in the 19th century, this museum
still has the world's best collection of Greek antiquities. The
dated premises, complete with faded handwritten labels and guidebooks
that have remained unchanged for years, has been closed and should
open, clean and comprehensively upgraded, in time for the 2004 Olympics.
Straight ahead from the entrance foyer is the museum's tour de force,
the Hall of Mycenaean Antiquities, which is filled with gleaming
gold. The star attraction is the Mask of Agamemnon. The Neolithic
Collection includes finds from Thessaly, as well as pottery, figurines
and jewellery from Troy. The Cycladic Collection includes a life-size
Cycladic figurine from Amorgos (the largest ever found), while other
rooms hold archaic, classical, late classical, Hellenistic and Roman
period sculpture, bronze and pottery. Other exquisite objects of
antiquity include elaborately decorated mummy cases. Of particular
note is the Thira Exhibition, consisting of spectacular Minoan frescoes
unearthed at Akrotiri on the island of Santorini. Other masterpieces
include a marble statue from Delos of Aphrodite with Pan and Eros
approx. 100BC and a bronze statue believed to be Poseidon or Zeus
dated to 460BC. There is also an amusing sculpture of Aphrodite
raising her sandal to ward off the frisky Pan.
National Gardens: The delightfully shady National
Gardens, featuring subtropical trees, winding paths and ornamental
ponds with waterfowl, are a nice refuge from the heat of the summer
months. Besides the exhibits of the Botanical Museum, there's also
a café, which makes a pleasant spot for a break. The national gardens
were formerly of royal status and were designed by Queen Amalia.
The Botanical Museum houses interesting drawings, paintings and
photographs. A day spent here will refresh your eyes and lungs for
another bout with the Athens streets.
Roman Agora & Tower of the Winds: Under Roman
rule, Athens' civic centre was moved to the Roman Agora, the partly
excavated site of which features a 1st-century, 68-seat public latrine.
Though little more than a heap of rubble to the average eye, the
site does hold an interesting nugget or two. The entrance is through
the well-preserved Gate of Athena Archegetis, flanked by four Doric
columns. To the right of the entrance are foundations of a 1st-century
public latrine and in the southeast area are the foundations of
a propylon and a row of shops. The octagonal marble Tower of Winds,
built in the 1st century BC by Syrian astronomer Andronicus, was
several monuments in one: it served as a sundial, weather vane,
water clock and compass. Each side of the monument represents a
compass point and has a relief of a figure floating through the
air, depicting the wind associated with that point. The weather
vane, which disappeared long ago, was a bronze Triton that revolved
upon the top of the tower.
The Keramikos: The Keramikos was the city's cemetery
from the 12th century BC to Roman times. It was discovered in 1861
during the construction of Pireos (the street that leads to Piraeus).
Remains still stand of the city wall, which was built by Themistocles
in 479 BC and rebuilt by Konon in 394 BC. The foundations of the
Sacred Gate, through which pilgrims from Eleusis entered the city
during the annual Eleusian procession is broken. The Dipylon Gate
was once the city's main entrance. It was also the top spot for
prostitutes, who touted their services to jaded travellers. Heading
away from the city, the Street of Tombs consists of an astonishing
array of funerary monuments and their bas-reliefs call for a close
look. This avenue was reserved for the city's prominent citizens,
while the ordinary folk were buried in the bordering areas. To the
left of the Keramikos, the Oberlaender Museum displays stelae and
sculpture from the site, as well as an impressive collection of
vases and terracotta figurines.
Theatre of Dionysos: The enormous dimensions of
the Theatre of Dionysos give testament to the importance of theatre
in the life of the Athenian city-state. The first theatre on this
site was a timber affair erected in the 6th century BC, where goatskin-clad
performers sang and danced during the annual festival in Dionysus'
honour.
During the golden age of the 5th century BC, dramas by Aeschylus,
Sophocles and Aristophanes were commissioned for the Festival of
Great Dionysia.
The theatre, on the Acropolis' southeastern slope, was reconstructed
in stone and marble by Lycurgus between 342 and 326BC. The auditorium
could seat 17,000; of an original 64 tiers of seats, about 20 tiers
still survive. The 2nd-century relief at the rear of the stage depict
the exploits of Dionysos. The two hefty, hunched-up selini were
worshippers of the mythical Selinos - he of the oversized phallus
- who charged up mountains in lecherous pursuit of nymphs. He mentored
Dionysos with whatever energy he had left over.
Activities
Athens is a great city for walks and most of the city's hills
are crisscrossed by trails. Folk-dancing workshops for amateurs are
held in July and August - check local English-language newspapers
for details.
Special events
Epiphany on 6 January,
Good Friday and Easter Sunday,
Independence Day on 25 March,
Labour Day on 1 May,
Assumption Day on 15 August (celebrated with family reunions),
Ohi Day on 28 October,
Christmas Day
St Stephen's Day (26 December).
The Greek carnival season runs the three weeks before the beginning
of Lent; festivities in Athens involve eating, drinking and all-around
merrymaking.
Easter is the most significant festival in the Greek Orthodox calendar.
The candlelit procession climbing Lykavittos Hill to the Chapel
of Agios Georgos is a truly impressive sight.
Cultural events rapidly roll in come summertime. Greek folk dances
are performed from mid-May to September and a nightly son et lumière
runs from April to October. But the city's biggest event is the
Hellenic Festival, from mid-June to the end of September. Ancient
Greek drama is performed at the Theatre of Herodes Atticus - a superb
setting backed by the floodlit Acropolis. Plays run at other venues
as well, and there are various classical music concerts and dance
performances during the festivities.
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