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Zurich, Switzerland
Switzerland is a country of
breathtaking natural scenery, with snow-covered mountains, clear
turquoise lakes and alpine pastures filling many a picture-postcard.
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Zurich is located on the northern shores of Lake Zürich, Zürichsee, and as Switzerland's most populous - and arguably most intellectual and cultural - city, you won't be short of things to do. The picturesque old city, with its cobbled streets, town houses, ancient churches, boutiques and street cafés, contrasts with the clean modern architecture of the financial district. As you would expect of any Swiss town, it's compact and orderly, with both the standard and cost of living correspondingly high. However it's definitely worth spending a few euros to soak up the atmosphere and enjoy a few outdoor pursuits in what has to be one of Europe's most beautiful landscapes.
Switzerland is a country of breathtaking natural scenery, with
snow-covered mountains, clear turquoise lakes and alpine pastures
filling many a picture-postcard. It is also a country that strikes
a harmonious balance between the charming old towns of medieval
age and the efficient, high-tech society of modern times - with
a large percentage of the population speaking not only German but
also French, Italian and more. Zurich itself is located on the northern
shores of Lake Zürich, Zürichsee, and as Switzerland's most populous
- and arguably most intellectual and cultural - city, you won't
be short of things to do. And as you would expect of any Swiss town,
it's compact and orderly, with both the standard and the cost of
living correspondingly high. But it's surely worth spending a few
euros to soak up the atmosphere and enjoy a few outdoor pursuits
in one of the most beautiful landscapes in all of Europe.
City Sights
The elegant Bahnhofstrasse was built on the site of the city
walls, which were torn down 150 years ago. Underfoot are bank vaults
crammed with gold and silver and other booty - unfortunately these
are not open to the public (we can't figure out why). For the clock-watchers,
the 13th-century tower of St Peter's Church has the largest clock
face in Europe. The Fraumünster Church nearby is noted for
the distinctive stained-glass windows in the choir, which were created
by Marc Chagall in 1970 at the ripe old age of 83.
The Museum of Fine Arts has a large permanent collection ranging
from 15th-century religious art to the 'modern' art of Monet, Manet
and Man Ray. The Swiss National Museum, housed in a pseudo-castle
north of the city centre, provides the ultimate rundown on the life
and times of the Swiss nation and, just in case you forgot you were
in Switzerland, has an interesting section on book-inscribing in
the Middle Ages. When the culture vulture in you can't take any
more, there are pleasant pathways along the shores of Lake Zürich
that pass picnic, sunbathing and swimming spots.
Day Trips
Geneva
Comfortably encamped on the shore of Lake Geneva, this spic-and-span
city belongs to the international community as much as it belongs
to the Swiss: over 200 international organisations are headquartered
here; one in three residents are non-Swiss; and just about every
global problem from nuclear proliferation to ethnic cleansing has
done a star turn at Geneva's famously neutral negotiating tables.
The global affairs it tries to make sense of may be murky, distressing
and dangerous, but the city itself is pristine, efficient and safe.
Some punters have gone as far as to complain about sterility, but
then some people wouldn't recognise a good thing if it waved a dozen
flags and shouted in their ear.
The city enjoys a fine location, and strolls around the lake and boating excursions
are hugely enjoyable. The cable car up Mont Salève offers the complete
picturesque panorama. The Rhône River runs through the city with the old
part of town lying on the south side. The centre of town is dominated by the
partially Romanesque, partially Gothic Cathedral St Pierre. John Calvin preached
here from 1536 to 1564 and the body of the church matches the austerity of his
teachings. The nearby Place du Bourg-de-Four is the oldest square in Geneva.
It was once a Roman forum, evolved into a medieval marketplace, and is now destined
for a future as the loci of touristy shops.
Lucerne
Lucerne is ideally situated in the historic and scenic heart of
what many believe to be the 'true' Switzerland - picture mountains,
lakes, cowbells, alpine villages and meadows full of edelweiss.
The charming town straddles the Reuss River on the western edge
of Lake Lucerne and makes an excellent base for excursions.
On the north bank of the Reuss, the picturesque old-town centre offers 15th-century
buildings with painted facades, towers, a 17th-century Renaissance town hall
and a couple of postcard-perfect covered bridges. North-east of the city centre
is the poignant Lion Monument, which was carved out of natural rock in 1820
and is dedicated to the Swiss soldiers who died in the French Revolution. Next
to it is the fascinating Gletschergarten (Glacier Garden) where giant glacial
potholes prove that 20 million years ago Lucerne was a subtropical palm beach.
Jungfrau Region
If you're looking for jaw-dropping scenery, the Jungfrau region
south of Interlaken has it in spades. The towering 4000m triplets
- the Jungfrau, Mönch and Eiger - dominate the area, and there
are plenty of cable cars, funiculars, cog-wheel railways and hiking
trails offering panoramic vantage points for those not suffering
landscape vertigo. Grindelwald is the most established skiing and
hiking centre in the region; watch out for the yodelling festival
held here in July.
Château de Chillon
Chillon Castle receives more visitors than any other historical
building in Switzerland. Occupying a stunning position right on
Lake Geneva, the fortress caught the public imagination when Lord
Byron wrote about the fate of Bonivard, a follower of the Reformation
who was chained to the fifth pillar in the dungeons for four years
in the 16th century. Byron etched his own name on the third pillar.
The castle, still in excellent condition, dates from the 11th century
and has been much modified and enlarged since then. It's worth spending
an afternoon viewing the tower, courtyards, dungeons and numerous
rooms containing weapons, utensils, frescos and tupperware. The
castle is located within walking distance of Montreux, the centrepiece
of the Swiss Riviera.
Zermatt
This swanky skiing and mountaineering resort bathes in the reflected
glory of one of the most famous peaks in the Alps, the 4478m Matterhorn.
Skiers come here to enjoy virtually year-round skiing and there
are 230km of runs in the area, catering mainly to intermediate and
experienced skiers. The more sedentary come simply to enjoy the
awe-inspiring views. For some magical vistas of the Matterhorn and
surrounding peaks, take the popular cog-wheel railway to Gornergrat.
It's easy to get around Zermatt on foot (the town is car-free) and
it's well worth exploring the Hinter Dorf area, which is crammed
with traditional tumble-down wooden Valais homes. A walk in the
cemetery is a sobering experience for would-be mountaineers. The
names of those who attempted the Matterhorn and Mt Rosa and did
not live to tell the tale are inscribed on stone monuments.
Activities
The mountains and lakes of Switzerland are a natural playground.
There are dozens of ski resorts throughout the Alps, the Pre-Alps
and the Jura. Zermatt and Verbier have the best combination of slopes,
scenery and nightlife. Hiking is the number-one activity in the country,
with 50,000km of designated footpaths and regular refreshment stops
en route. There are well-established mountaineering schools in Pontresina
and Meiringen, though Zermatt is perhaps the most famous destination
for experienced mountaineers. Ski mountaineering is popular along
the Haute Route in Valais. Many of the resorts also offer paragliding
and hang-gliding and hire out the gear. Water-skiing, sailing and
windsurfing are common on most lakes. Rafting is possible on many
alpine rivers, including the Rhine and the Saane. Canoeing is mainly
centred on the Muota in Schwyz canton and on the Doubs River in the
Jura.
Special Events
February is carnival time, or Fasnacht, in many towns, but Basel
really funks it up with elaborate parades beginning at a bleary
4 am. In the lower Valais, from March to October, cows battle it
out in the Combat de Reines (cow fighting) to see which beast is
most suited to lead the herd up to the summer pastures. The world-renowned
Montreux Jazz Festival takes place in July. National Day (August
1) is celebrated with fireworks throughout the country, and Swiss
wrestling in the Emmenthal area east of Bern. On the fourth Monday
in November, Bern hosts its famous onion market (Zibelmarit), where
traders take over the whole town centre and many a tear is shed.
Before you go......
Books
Why Switzerland? by Jonathan Steinberg is a light and insightful
look at Switzerland's social and political life. George Mikes Introduces
Switzerland is a more sober collection of essays covering all aspects
of Swiss life.
Blood Money: the Swiss, the Nazis and the Looted Billions by Tom
Bower is a sobering exposé of one of the sleazier sides of
Switzerland's banks.
Max Frisch explores Swiss identity through denial in his novel I'm
Not Stiller, and examines the idea of detached neutrality in Homo
Faber.
The Magic Mountain by Thomas Mann is a weighty, reflective novel
set in the Alps. Mary Shelley wrote Frankenstein in Switzerland
and set much of the action around Lake Geneva.
Heidi, the famous children's story by Johanna Spyri, is set in
the Maienfeld region, just north of Chur.
Anecdotal travel books about Europe that have sizeable sections
on Switzerland include Mark Twain's A Tramp Abroad and Bill Bryson's
Neither Here Nor There. |
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